Good morning!

Leftovers for breakfast was on the menu so we could clean out the fridge before we head our separate ways. Kari and Matt won’t be coming to Malawi with us, they are off on a treetop safari in Tanzania, so we have some food to eat. Fried Mac and cheese for me!

I am super looking forward to a shower with real water. This little trickle that makes me wonder if I am actually getting wet is starting to make me crazy. My hair is sticky from shampoo that hasn’t come out, mixed with pollution, dust and sweat, I am definitely Uber attractive. I will say however, that it hasn’t slowed down my eyebrow action as I drive through town. I’m not sure if I mentioned it, but the main way to communicate here is via eyebrows and the sucking in of air. Pre-groomed eyebrows are recommended so as to avoid any miscommunications. The men do it more than the women, and they are often caught off guard when a white woman does it to them to say Hi. I quite like it actually, and rise to the challenge of multiple eyebrow raises when they don’t respond initially.

We were sitting in traffic today on our way to the ambulance tour we had arranged, and a woman with her child came begging at the window. As I have mentioned, giving anything to beggars or vendors can result in the driver getting a ticket. I had made eye contact with the woman, and didn’t want to be rude by ignoring her, so I quickly commented on what a cute baby she had. In all likelihood, she had no idea what I was saying, but it made me feel better to talk to her like one mom to another rather than just have her as invisible and ignore her.

On the drive we saw a beautiful playground that was a bit out of place considering the slums we were in, and then we were able to figure it out. I was protected by armed guards with AK-47’s to only allow certain kids to use it. Likely diplomat’s children as that is where several embassies were. I am told that 35%of people live in the shanty houses or are homeless and 65% live in the apartments. Most seem to have satellite TV, even though we are told it is very expensive.

Pulling into the alley by the Tebita Ambulance there were what appeared to be human femurs laying in the gutters, no one knows why.

We meet Kibret Abebe, the CEO of Tebita Ambulance. He was formerly a nurse anesthesiologist who was asked to go on a transfer between hospitals with a patient all the way to London. When he saw the power of having an ambulance to do that job, he came home and resigned from his position at the Black Lion Hospital, sold his house to raise the money he needed, went to Dubai to buy the equipment and started the Tebita Ambulance. He chose that name because Tebita means “Where is my drop of contribution?”He chose the mustang as his symbol because he wants his delivery of health care to be swift and strong. There are currently zero paramedics in the whole country of Ethiopia. His force has now grown to have 11 BLS ambulances and two motorcycle response units. They do 25-30 calls per day. Five are in Addis and 6 are remotely stationed, sometimes at large businesses that hire him, much like oilfield medics on site would be. His vision is to have a social enterprise with cross subsidization of his venture.

There was a big accident is Addis that killed 26 people that he and his crews attended to for no charge that involved some delegates from the Canadian Embassy. They were so grateful to his organization, that they gifted him $30,000 to assist in his starting of his school to train paramedics. He is now in need of instructors and books to start training his first 15 students. He has been working with the government and they would like to have 17,000 people go through a training program to make them paramedics.

This man was very inspiring. He has been travelling the world attending conferences to explain his vision for his country, and with as much passion as he has, and the commitment behind it, I believe he will make history.

We then went to Makus art gallery for lunch before headed out to Kirkos again for more medical assessments.

Off to bed early tonight, as tomorrow we leave for Malawi.getting wet is starting to make me crazy. My hair is sticky from shampoo that hasn’t come out, mixed with pollution, dust and sweat, I am definitely Uber attractive. I will say however, that it hasn’t slowed down my eyebrow action as I drive through town. I’m not sure if I mentioned it, but the main way to communicate here is via eyebrows and the sucking in of air. Pre-groomed eyebrows are recommended so as to avoid any miscommunications. The men do it more than the women, and they are often caught off guard when a white woman does it to them to say Hi. I quite like it actually, and rise to the challenge of multiple eyebrow raises when they don’t respond initially.

We were sitting in traffic today on our way to the ambulance tour we had arranged, and a woman with her child came begging at the window. As I have mentioned, giving anything to beggars or vendors can result in the driver getting a ticket. I had made eye contact with the woman, and didn’t want to be rude by ignoring her, so I quickly commented on what a cute baby she had. In all likelihood, she had no idea what I was saying, but it made me feel better to talk to her like one mom to another rather than just have her as invisible and ignore her.

On the drive we saw a beautiful playground that was a bit out of place considering the slums we were in, and then we were able to figure it out. I was protected by armed guards with AK-47’s to only allow certain kids to use it. Likely diplomat’s children as that is where several embassies were. I am told that 35%of people live in the shanty houses or are homeless and 65% live in the apartments. Most seem to have satellite TV, even though we are told it is very expensive.

Pulling into the alley by the Tebita Ambulance there were what appeared to be human femurs laying in the gutters, no one knows why.

We meet Kibret Abebe, the CEO of Tebita Ambulance. He was formerly a nurse anesthesiologist who was asked to go on a transfer between hospitals with a patient all the way to London. When he saw the power of having an ambulance to do that job, he came home and resigned from his position at the Black Lion Hospital, sold his house to raise the money he needed, went to Dubai to buy the equipment and started the Tebita Ambulance. He chose that name because Tebita means “Where is my drop of contribution?”He chose the mustang as his symbol because he wants his delivery of health care to be swift and strong. There are currently zero paramedics in the whole country of Ethiopia. His force has now grown to have 11 BLS ambulances and two motorcycle response units. They do 25-30 calls per day. Five are in Addis and 6 are remotely stationed, sometimes at large businesses that hire him, much like oilfield medics on site would be. His vision is to have a social enterprise with cross subsidization of his venture.

There was a big accident is Addis that killed 26 people that he and his crews attended to for no charge that involved some delegates from the Canadian Embassy. They were so grateful to his organization, that they gifted him $30,000 to assist in his starting of his school to train paramedics. He is now in need of instructors and books to start training his first 15 students. He has been working with the government and they would like to have 17,000 people go through a training program to make them paramedics.

This man was very inspiring. He has been travelling the world attending conferences to explain his vision for his country, and with as much passion as he has, and the commitment behind it, I believe he will make history.

We then went to Makus art gallery for lunch before headed out to Kirkos again for more medical assessments.

Off to bed early tonight, as tomorrow we leave for Malawi.

Our morning started with dairy deprivation leg cramps and bad dreams. I don’t remember what it was about completely, but it had to do with work somehow. If I remember, I will add it.

There was also a live lawnmower in the playground when we went outside. The ox used to plow the centre’s garden was grazing by the swing set. I’m not sure who, but someone went to give it a pet, and the business end of the horns quickly came out. Needless to say, there was not attempt made to ride it.

We were due to go to the market in Gindo this morning and see all the locals bring their wares and animals to sell, however it has been cancelled. The Oromio region we are in has a quiet rage under the surface quietly simmering. The locals are under strict control by the government and are currently being controlled with the distribution of sugar and oil, and they aren’t happy about it. There are lineups at the government offices every day to get doled out their portions/rations of these items, and apparently things are getting out of hand at times.

The other factor is a lot of Chinese developers are coming here and subsequently, people are having their homes appropriated by the government so the land can be sold to foreign investors. Once their land is appropriated (with no choice to them) they are forced to move, often at quite a distance from their jobs. The locals are mixed in their thoughts of the developments, as they like the result of the new roads being built etc, but at what cost to their lives and convenience etc. We have since found out via the Canadian Embassy who emailed us warning us of this uprising (that we received after the fact due to WiFi restrictions) that 8 people were killed at this uprising a mere 45 kilometres from where we are staying. I am not sure if they were locals or foreigners, but either way, we are again grateful to our drivers and bodyguards for their wise council as to our safety.

The best we could do was participate in the human zoo we are in was to watch the locals parade by with their oxen and donkeys etc on their way to the market past where we are staying and be kept separated by the 6 foot barbed wire fence. As much as we were interested in watching what was going by, once word spread of our presence, we became the zoo animals. Most people around here have no TV and have never seen a white skinned person, so were drew quite a bit of attention. The dangers of such were not lost on us, and so we retreated to the buildings shortly so as to not be a target of their rage. Perhaps they might have thought we were foreign investors too, and thus be mad at us. Either way, we were safe and have since left there at the time of this writing.

Our beloved Henchman came to show us a few things, as I mentioned before. We (the women in our group) have since started to carry sticks with us for the purposes of whipping people as required. Seriously. No whipping has occurred yet, but just having the sticks has immediately elevated our position in the group without saying a word. They are small for the most part, but the message is clear. Nail polish gate Part two We went out and decided that we were going to assist in the teaching of life skills when it comes to being patient and waiting your turn. We (Me, Alynne and Kari) lined up our chairs with our backs to the walls, a table in front of us, and sticks at the ready. Immediately word spread of the polishing and very quickly they were back. Kari was getting swamped again and she looked like she was about to cry, so I quick to support her with my Kramer finger wave back and forth (as to say veddy veddy bad man) and they slowed in their rush to her polish bottle. It didn’t slow for long and soon Alynne was being hounded by girls who had had their nails painted yesterday that wanted them done again. They had even gone so far as to pick off polish so it could be repainted. We explained that everyone got their nails painted once, and no fixes etc would be done until ALL the girl had been done. We explained the need to wait and take your turn patiently, but soon things required further action. Alynne started to shriek at them that if thy didn’t like it, they could GET OUT!!! As she pointed to the door. Her eyes were bugging out and she was about to snap. Sensing she needed some reinforcement, I picked up my stick and slapped it on the table whilst standing up, shoving my chair back and shrieked at them quite loudly. The offending girls scattered as they knew a good ear pulling was next. Ahhhhh…..Thanks Henchman! Those remaining sat quietly and things progressed nicely after that.

All the while this was going on, Matt and Lee were toiling the whole time cleaning teeth, doing fillings, and dental extractions. Shortly afterwards, the medical exams and treatments with glasses, pills, potions and creams were dispensed to the sick. Sammy then came and found me and asked if I wanted to go for a ride in the contraption that was being pulled by a mule for a ride around the village. Why of course I was! One of the body guards came with me and away we trotted. The locals seeing the driver with us started to make remarks to him I couldn’t understand but you could tell he wasn’t super excited about tit, so it was a short ride. Kari came next and she had a quick ride but was back in short order. She is uber blonde, so she was even drawing more attention than I. The decision to leave today instead of staying one more night and leaving in the morning was made, and so our program shortened a bit.

We had lunch (presumably hyena meat from the hunt the night before….or was it goat or sheep…we will never know – remember the stores sell “normal meat” that is otherwise not labelled…) and did more games etc with the kids. We played with the parachute, they worked on their Christmas crafts for their sponsors, Dick taught them some hand games of strength and agility, poking and pulling (easier shown than described), there was a one legged pillow fight and the kids put on a show for us with dancing, Taekwondo demonstrations, and a few circus performances (this is what they call gymnastics here). We were then the object of their fun, as we did our best to dance their way with much shoulder participation and with everyone often looking like strutting chickens. Video to come later. It was a lot of fun. It was then time to leave. Alynne decided to empower one of the little girls with the gift of her stick, and immediately it became a toothbrush as it was put into her mouth to clean between her teeth. Weird.

We left Gindo in our travelling zoo convey and started the three and a half hour trek from the sticks back to Addis. Gone was the lovely fresh air and beautiful country scenery, ad we were headed back to the pollution and garbage of the capitol city. On the way, we stopped for a picture at a humongous tree at an Artesian well and sadly Lee and Alynne almost got sucked into a quicksand bog of slimy water, but were able to pull their feet out before their shoes were consumed by the wilds of Africa. It will be a tea tree bath for both their shoes and feet tonight. We have learned there is a silica element to the soil, that if exposed to for long periods of time, can produce an effect in your body similar to elephantitis. As none of us are wanting that, baths and laundry for all will be had upon our return to Addis.

On the drive back, there was much horn honking at us on the roads, as well as a larger military presence that wasn’t there when we came down. (Remember we are still unaware as to the extent of the uprising…). We had to go through a checkpoint where everyone’s vehicle was getting inspected. We weren’t sure what they were looking for at the time, but it could be surmised now that it was for some of the offending rebels. We were greeted by our orange and white guard cat in the guard tower when we arrived at the house. Our stuff was unpacked, ad then we made the executive decision to travel across the city to the Sheraton to get good WiFi and check in with our peeps. It was then we saw on the news and in our emails about the uprisings and deaths near where we were.

Here is an excerpt from the email….

Dear Canadians,

You are receiving this email because you are registered with the Government of Canada’s Registration of Canadians Abroad service. Please share the following important information with other Canadian nationals in your area. Please note that the Embassy of Canada has received reports of ongoing demonstrations across towns in the Oromia region, including cities near Addis. Transportation has been disrupted and vehicles going to these areas have been attacked by rioters.

Canadians should be cautious about all road travels across Oromia and remain vigilant at all times, avoid all demonstrations and large gatherings, follow the advice of local authorities and monitor local media. Due to recent tensions at the border between the Oromia and Somali regions, we recommend that Canadians located in these areas get in touch with their family members and emergency contacts in Canada to confirm their wellbeing and whereabouts, even if they have not been affected by this event.

If you have already left and are no longer in Ethiopia please send an email to our Registration of Canadians Abroad email address at ‪siac.registration-inscription@international.gc.ca‬ in order to end your registration in our system.

Either way, we are back from there. We also learned that there is such a thing as a seven star hotel. I thought five was the max, but apparently not. This was a seven star resort, complete with a to-scale model of the resort and all it had to offer. After going through the metal detectors, we came through and really wished it was where we were staying!! Some rooms were $14,000USD per night! On our way to the restaurant, we saw the big poster for Wiz Kid. Apparently he is a big deal in the music industry and Matt was quite bummed that he couldn’t go see him. The promoters were there and they were telling us where to go to see him, but we didn’t have time to wait for the concert. 🙁

On the drive back Kari and I were dreaming of salad and our bellies were telling us that the hyena meat lunch hadn’t been enough to satisfy us, so we shared a lifesaving Kirkland snack bag and thought of all the things we wanted to eat when we were back in Canada. After a delicious 7 star supper, we headed back home across town for showers and bed. In the process of cleaning up, I tried to use my roller dryer and fried it on the 220V socket. Interesting hair is in my future! Good thing it isn’t me having to look at it!

Good night all….on to type the next day’s blog!

This was the most relaxing day of the trip so far. Everywhere we have been going has required nearly an hour of driving each way. It isn’t because the centres are particularly far apart, but it is the sheer volume of traffic. Traffic being cars, as well as people, scooters, horses, donkeys, goats, herds of sheep, oxen, mule carts and big semi’s. Seriously. They all share the same roadway (including their version of our major highways), and traffic circles are what is used to keep them moving. Horns are beeped and the smog thick as engines are constantly revving as they lurch down the road.

Kari, Matt and Dick went to church, and Lee, Alynne and I slept in. We then went and picked up some more groceries for the week and were able to laze around for the morning. There was an award ceremony we went to at the Amengela centre for the students and their top marks where they did a coffee ceremony for us, as well as a feast of “normal meat” sloppy Joe’s on a bun that would later come back to haunt Alynne for nearly 36 hours. It was here that our song of the trip was born. Malemequoi was performed and we all loved it. Apparently there are artists here that are taking the old tribal music, and digitally remastering it into funky beat songs that are very popular with the younger crowds. After the awards ceremony we went back to the house to have a dinner in honor of the scholarship students who have graduated from school, graduated from the program and now are enrolled in either technical college or university. There were games and traditional Ethiopian food and then it was time for bed again. We are ally pretty tired at this point of the constant go go go pace. Bye!!!!

The morning today was a bit of a leisure morning where our drivers took us to the Mercato. It is the largest outdoor market in the world. And large it was.

Without being able to do any google research (Wi/fi is spotty if you haven’t guessed by now) the three of us estimate the size of the market to be as big as Ross Glen, including Taylor and East Glen. Everything from rebar to plastic chairs, to cloths and textiles, to food and between was offered. Our driver advised us to not get out, but to enjoy the scenery from the van. Pickpockets were thick, foreigners are big big targets for mugging and we were all good with that. I was taking some pictures and video from the window, well inside the van, and both the driver and a guy from the street told me to be very careful to hold on to my phone or someone would reach in and snatch it before I knew it was happening. Apparently the belief is that it is ok to rob the foreigners, with zero qualms. Luckily, my ninja reflexes, mixed with my keen acumen of approaching danger had my phone safe even t the end of the drive.

We then went on to visit a local gift shop and pick up a few momentos and it is there Alynne saw her first Ethiopian Downs syndrome baby. The mom was motioning to her that she needed money or food, and so Alynne gave her some as we were parked in the street waiting for the group to reassemble. I also was able to take a photo of a duster/ceremonial thing (?) and decorative item that people here have. It looks like a feather duster, but it is made of real hair. Some people have them hanging in their vehicles, some keep them in their homes. It can be used to keep flies away, to clean, or for ceremonial rituals. I can’t say for certain what those are, but they may or may not involve a sacrificial goat….

Begging is trying to be outlawed as the police are fining the drivers if someone from the van either gives to the beggars, or buys something from a street vendor. People must still be doing it, even though it is illegal, because they are still begging and vending. We then headed to the main coffee shop and were able to buy bags and bags of their local coffee. Months ago I was speaking with some coworkers about the fact I didn’t really care for coffee. Dalton said perhaps it was just that I never had any that I had liked. To be honest, I and’t even considered that there were different type or raw flavours that varied. Well, I have really, really like the coffee here. I have bought some to come home with me, as well as the dishes and coffee pot to make a coffee ceremony for guests. YUM! I have it at every opportunity.

Our next stop was the local textiles and silk factory oasis in the city. When I say oasis, I am not joking. Once the gates closed behind the van, we entered a world that was invisible to the outside world. Even when we were driving down the back alley to get there, we didn’t know we what we would see when we entered. It was lush, leafy, tall tall palm trees, beautiful flowers and the pollution was quickly reduced by all the jungle plants. The first thing to greet us was a rack of silk worm pods and the the threads they used to weave the clothes, bags and scarves that they sold. You can well imagine the items were pricey, and after a few minutes respite in the jungle oasis, we hit the bricks again for the world famished spice hut they have here.

Our first coffee ceremony had us eating fresh bread brushed with Burberry spices, and it was delicious to all of us. It was at this spice hut we were able to buy some to take home for our own personal use. Matt will be quite excited to get our picture of us in front of the hut when I get back.

The afternoon had us returning to the Amengala centre for the medial and dental assessments for the kids and guardians there. It has here I got board certified as a dental surgeon (practically) as I assisted Matt in pulling teeth and running the instruments. Kari had the good fortune to witness a child of about 2 whip down her pants and take a big nasty runny peanut buttery poop on the sidewalk as the other kids and adults alike laughed and pointed. It was soon cleaned up. Right. No, it wasn’t. There was a small shovelful of dirt up on top of it, and voila! Business as usual. I think it might be a while before Kari enjoys peanut butter now…

Lee then had his turn at ripping bones from skulls as there were plenty of rotten teeth to go around. He has the advantage over me now though as he got to administer the intra-oral/mucosal freezing pre filling and I did not. 🙁 There was also one lady who was very scared of the suction tubing I put in her mouth, and there was no convincing her to sit into the suction tube when she first had a mouthful of spit, and so she leaded over the chair and just hoarded it onto the floor. I immediately went into Mom mode and scolded her for her rude behaviour. Who knows what sort of nasty germs she had! It was disgusting. Truly gross. As charming, lovely and delightful as the boy who blew his nose against the wall when he thought no one was looking.

There was another lady who had had an abscess for sooooooo long, that it had created an external fistula. (Tunnel to the outside of her face for those of you not knowing what this is, and wishing to re-enjoy your breakfast.). It was pushing and bleeding as we worked on her teeth, and we were able to flush the hole out from the inside to the outside it was so gross. This being said, there was a young boy who truly complimented Alynne on her beautiful artwork on her tattoo. In doing her research prior to coming, an owl tattoo symbolizes the death of a child. What do you suppose Alynne had on her bicep tattoo…You guess it, a HUGE owl tattoo. She had been covering it initially, but then decided to let it buck, and went without her long sleeves and lo and behold, the children were always wanting to touch and see it. I chose to keep mine covered…lol

One boy who I assisted on three fillings for, came up to me afterwards and said, “You are a very good Doctor! (Insert big grin here on both of our parts)”. I didn’t have it in me to correct him. I will say, all the kids were very grateful for all the care they received, even if it hurt, like fillings or extractions.

When we were driving from the market back to the house, we saw the fountain I had in my dream earlier. Lee decided to stand in a pool of water, strip his pants off and self baptize until two men in long grey trench coats rendered a beating on him like no other. One of the body guards and I were the only two able to help him, but since there was ice on the road, the body guard was useless, never having seen it before. I was able to quickly go across the street and save Lee from certain death as I wrestled one trenchman (not Henchman as ou might think) and twist his arm across behind home while kneeling on his chest like you do when you kill a coyote. These malaria pills are great for dreams!

The house we are at is in the direct flight path of the airport, so huge Dreamliner jets are constantly buzzing overhead, keeping us awake. Next to the Ace dogs killing each other in the night and then howling at their success….

Off to bed now….